Days of Summer

Photo by Holly Higgins

It's that time of year again. Time to get the dogs we hunted and field trialed last season back in to shape, give the broke dogs a tune up and get the puppies that have been pointing and chasing, broke before this fall season. It's a tough time of year to train; the weather is hot, the weeds (foxtail, cheatgrass, madusahead, speargrass) are dangerous, it's snakey, and the hours at work are generally long; time is a scarce resource. The dogs feed is being cut back to help burn off the winter layer of insulation and prepare them for early season field trials and hunts; they will typically be three- to seven-pounds heavier in the winter than in the summer; depending on the dog. Some folks like to change feeds between the high activity level seasons of fall and winter, and the lower activity level seasons of spring and summer. I've always stuck with the same feed year-round, a high quality 30/20 mix, and just regulate the once-daily ration of feed according to the dogs needs. Each dog in the kennel is different in it's daily consumption; some are easy keepers and most aren't. I have a small female that weighs in at about 36-pounds, and may be a couple pounds heavier in the winter, and a male that will go 55-pounds in winter and down to 47-pounds during field trial and bird season. Even at their heaviest, my dogs have a waistline. If hipbones and spine begin to show as they cut weight during the summer, I'll add a little feed to smooth-out the bumps. Pointers and Setters are world class athletes and need to be kept in top physical condition to do their job in the field at the highest level. High quality feed, and access to clean fresh water throughout the day are important in managing your dogs physical condition year-round.

Staked-out

Stake-outs are a great option when weather and ground conditions allow for a good spot to get the truck off the road; in the late season a nice dry wide-spot is often hard to find. The stake-outs give dogs that would otherwise be crated an opportunity to stretch their legs and lay in the sun, recover from an earlier hunt, relieve themselves, and get watered-up and fed. The stakes should be kept far enough apart so that dogs can't get tangled in each others chains; this could be disastrous, if not deadly. Each of my stakes has a 30-inch chain on it, and I generally space the stakes about 7-feet apart. With that chain length, and that distance between stakes, dogs can generally just touch noses or paws.  Dog stools are picked-up as generated, which generally occurs within the first ten minutes of being staked-out after the morning ride to the grounds. Bring along a shovel to scoop the poop, and to fill any holes your dogs may dig while stake-out.

Fly Control

During the summer flies become a big problem; they're dirty, aggressive, and can pass disease to your animals. For those of you out there having problems controlling flies around the dog kennels and horse turnouts, I have found these fly bags to be a great way to do some damage to the persistent little critters ever-multiplying numbers. The bags can be purchased at most hardware and feed stores, and have easy to follow instructions for use right on them. They are non-toxic and highly effective.The picture above shows a bag full of flies which I am replacing with a fresh bag. Proper husbandry; keeping manure and stool to a minimum in your kennels and turnouts, also keeps fly and health issues to a minimum; I make it a point to clean-up my kennels and turnouts twice a day.

Lightning strikes twice

My pup, Buddy, is showing me that he is birdy, handles to the front naturally, and wants to please. But when running him in Montana over the past couple of weeks  he seemed to be tiring sooner than normal and when tired his breathing was labored. After a cursory exam in the field I took him to Dr. Marcos Puiggari, DVM at Alpine Veterinary in Missoula.

Marcos confirmed that Buddy had Elongated Soft Palette (ESP) -- the same problem that was effecting L.J. (see an earlier post on this subject). Here is what Marcos found...

Before surgical correction - note the constricted airway that the pointer is indicating.

Note the much improved airway after corrective surgery...

In earlier conversations with Terry Turlep, DVM, who has done quite a few ESP corrections on sporting dogs, ESP occurs more often than is commonly recognized. He also indicated that the condition is most common in breeds with pug noses - pugs, bulldogs, etc., but can occur in all breeds and the genetics are not understood.

Elongated Soft Palate in bird dogs

Elongated soft palate (ESP) is one of a set of conditions normally associated with brachycephalic syndrome, which is endemic to pug-nosed dogs. These breeds very often suffer breathing and other problems due to the truncation of their noses. What I did not know is that pointing breeds can suffer from the problem.

For a bird dog ESP is a huge problem - the rear of the soft palate extends down far enough to partially block the airway leading to the trachea and it makes full inhalation and exhalation especially difficult. Animals with elongated soft palates breathe heavily with a fluttering , gasping sound. They may also gag when they try to swallow, and may even have pale gum tissue from lack of oxygen in the blood after exercise.

My young pup, Little John or "LJ", has been with John McIltrot in Montana since last summer. John noticed that he ran well but tired much sooner than he should. John spoke with Dr. Terry Terlep, DVM of Thomasville, Georgia who felt that the symptoms were consistent with ESP. Subsequent medical examination revealed that his airway was restricted due to an elongated soft palate. "It was like he was trying to run a marathon while breathing through a soda straw" according to John. He just could not show us what we truly expected from him.

This is the first I have heard of this problem in pointing dogs. I spoke with Dr. Terlep hoping to learn more about ESP in pointing dogs. He told me that when he had his practice in South Florida he would see four or five bird dogs a year that were afflicted with ESP. "Owners usually came in saying the dog overheated or lacked stamina. The sound of dogs with elongated soft palate is distinctive, the dog breathes like a freight train after exercise and the labored breathing has a fluttering sound."

"The treatment for elongated soft palate is surgical, simple and effective. The operation takes only 30 minutes or so and when completed the difference in performance is dramatic. This problem can be present in all pointing breeds and is hereditary, but the genetics have not really been studied " Dr. Terlep continued. I think bird dog people, especially breeders, need to take this more seriously. Certainly they should learn to recognize the symptoms and seek treatment when they see it."

On January 4th, Dr. Rich Scherr, DVM, of Great Falls operated and corrected LJ's palate. It is a relatively simple procedure that employs a laser to cut away excess soft palate tissue and simultaneously cauterize the wound. Dr. Scherr also mentioned that LJ had robust aerobic capability comparable to the 'plumbing' of a larger dog. We are hoping that this correction helps LJ to reach his full potential.

UPDATE - February 7th. >>>> L.J. is running very well and his bird finding and endurance is much improved. I think the problem is behind us.

Here is LJ - sedated and ready for the procedure that will allow him to better do what he was bred to do.

Less protein, more fat, better nose?

A new study reported by Science Daily suggests that decreasing protein to 18% and increasing fat intake improved dogs' detection ability. AKA, the sniff test.

Veterinarian Joseph Wakshlag, chief of nutrition at Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine, and his team found that decreasing protein intake to 18% and increasing fat intake improved dogs' sniffing abilities. Less protein results in a faster return to normal body temperature after activity, which translates to better olfactory ability, according to Dr. Wakshlag. The study used a new research technique, completely evacuating residual fumes from testing areas, that contributed to higher detection accuracy, suggesting dogs' detection abilities are better than previously thought.

This suggests that the high protein kibble options so often preferred may be a contributing cause to slow recovery to normal temperature after exercise. Might be worth some study if it would improve recovery rates.

Thanks to Charlie Hjerpe DVM for sending along the link.

Maggie's adventures

Maggie came home a cute puppy:

Then she started to run and get into trouble, first with a pair of coyotes:

And then with a rattlesnake:

But she got past those two near-fatal experiences and today I worked her on birds for the first time.  She shows good promise:

Though the bird is not far away, it is well hidden and she pointed on scent, not sight.  She held point staunchly for a couple of minutes while I played with the camera and was profoundly disappointed when I walked her away from the point with the lead.  I had her on lead because the planted pheasant was not fully mature and I did not want her to catch a poorly-flying bird.

We head for Oregon in a bit over a month and I have great hopes that she will stick some birds while we are there.  She hunts with me and responds well to commands, and I have a GPS collar  ;-),  so I should at least be able to keep up with her.

Grass seeds and infection

Canada wild rye - a dangerous grass, one among many you may encounter this Summer or Fall

Summer, and the time that many of us begin training dogs for the Fall season. Spring was late in the northern prairie. There has been a lot of rain/snow in most places this year and grass is high. There are a number of grasses that pose a serious and widespread risk to dogs, and this seems a good time to post again about the hazards or grass awn infections.

My setter, Ted, had a nasty infection from a cheat grass awn in his front paw last season that sidelined him for much of the season. With treatment, he recovered completely. But grass awns can kill your dog. They may be inhaled and cause disabling or fatal lung infections, or enter the mouth and be swallowed when the dog drinks and infect/perforate the walls of the stomach and digestive tract, or they can enter the dog's body through the skin and travel remarkable distances carrying infection with them. None of this is easily diagnosed or treated.

I am heading to Montana to work with my dogs on sharp-tails, young pheasants, and Huns for a couple of months at the end of July. Through Torben Hansen's thoughtfulness, I received a copy of documents by Cathy Lewis and Dr. Pat McInteer, DVM that were presented by Cathy at the Purina Pointing Dog Awards weekend last month. She has consented to my reproducing parts for her work here on Living with Bird Dogs. I'll put some links and citations at the end of this post and encourage anyone to learn more about this widespread and not easily diagnosed health risk. Here is the her (slightly edited) paper:

Grass Awn Infection, by Cathy Lewis (e-mail) and Dr. Pat McInteer, DVM

...you are your dogs best defense against this danger. Learn to recognize threats and avoid them, and carefully observe and know your dog. Recognizing subtle changes early may make a huge difference in successful treatment should your dog fall prey to a grass awn infection.

The most common grass threats to our dogs (my comments in brackets):

Foxtail Barley – if your live, train and/or compete (or HUNT) in the western United States or Alaska, especially, but this foxtail is spreading throughout the U.S.

Cheatgrass – a known threat in the Rocky Mountain states (and the entire Great Basin). Residents know that this becomes a problem when the grass begins to dry and drop its seeds, sometime around July, through the first freeze or snow.

Canada wild rye – unlike the above, this grass is actively cultivated as an effective cover crop for other, slower to establish grasses. It features a particularly aggressive awn. Popular with state and federal conservation authorities, and bird and habitat preservation organizations due to its low cost, it has become widespread through the Midwest and Mideastern states over the past ten years.

Find a full list of known problem grass species at www.meanseeds.com

Grass awn infections can manifest in multiple symptomspatterns (or combinations thereof): pyothorax (an infection in the chest cavity), pneumonia, and/or body wall or internal abscesses. Based on my experience and the case histories I am gathering, Many infections show up as an acute illness. The dog seemed fine two hours ago/yesterday, but nows/he has an elevated temperature, is lethargic, and has no interest in food…

The symptoms of a grass awn infection overlap those of other fairly common threats, such as tickborne disease. Your powers of observation may be key in making an accurate diagnosis quickly. If you have reason to suspect that your dog has been exposed to a problem grass, make your veterinarian aware of that fact and the likely manifestations. Veterinarians that do not see many working dogs in their practice may not consider the grass awn possibility in their early workup.

Treatment in most cases is costly. Even “medical management” of a pyothorax (Chest infection) is most times not a matter of simply giving some pills. With my own dogs, treatment costs have ranged from approximately $1000 to $12000...

In most cases that I am aware of where treatment has successfully resolved the infection, the dog's health has been restored to the point of returning to the field, though for competition dogs the consequences of surgery, e.g. removal of a lung lobe, ribs, and/or muscle tissue may effect performance to the point where retirement becomes advisable.

Sadly, the threat of grass awn infection appears to be rising. YOU are your dog's best defense.

Be careful out there...

Links:

Meanseeds.com (The Grass Awn Project)

Nocardia Infections in Bird Dogs, Dr. Pat McInteer, Dr. Kames Mills, and others

Speargrass, Dr. Pat McInteer

Sorrow at a loss and helpful advice

I received this sad news this morning...

It is with great sadness that I relay that Sean found Smak dead in his kennel on Thursday morning, April 7th.  It is believed that his death was caused by an injury that occurred on Wednesday during a training session at Red Rock, Nevada.    Sean had seen Smak being chased by 2 coyotes at about 300 yards.  Due to the distance and the rough terrain, it took Sean sometime to close the distance and catch up with Smak. At that time, Sean found him underneath a pickup belonging to some BLM employees.  Smak appeared to be shaken from his experience but not seriously hurt.    By the time Sean reached his trailer, Smak seemed to be O.K.  Upon arriving home, Sean noticed a small amount of blood in his crate and upon further examination he found a cut on Smak in the area where his front leg joins his body.  He cleaned the cut and doctored it.  It did not appear to be serious.  Smak was eating and drinking normally.   The next morning when Sean went to the kennel he found Smak dead.  Upon close examination, he found a small hole penetrating in approximately 4".  Sean believes it may have penetrated his lung.   Smak was 6 years old and had won 9 Championships and 5 Runner-up Championship placements.  He was admired by all who had the privilege of seeing him compete.  Frequently, field trialers would ride in the gallery just to watch him .  He was qualified to run in the Nationals and competed in the Amateur Invitational held at the Ames Plantation in which only the top 12 dogs were invited.   There are only a few dogs who have earned the right to be called great. In my opinion, there is no doubt that Smak has earned the right to be counted among those privileged few!!

Sean is a sportsman and is dedicated to his dogs. Kelly's Talk'n Smak was a truly exceptional bird dog. I saw him run many times and have run in brace with him a few times at trials. My condolences to Sean at his loss.


In light of the risks that our dogs take, I am again recommending that you take a minute to look at Birddogdoc's (Shawn Wayment) blog - he has a lot of good advice that might help us treat the inevitable injuries that our bird dogs sustain while doing what they do.


Be careful out there!

Rosie may never learn

My setter Rosie is a walking disaster area. Boundless enthusiasm untempered by even a shred of common sense. She's been stitched more times than any other dog I know - probably twice as many times - and now has endured her second snake bite. She looks truly pathetic in this picture - oh the ignominy that a regal setter should look like a sharpei.
She was bit yesterday evening (Friday) and today (Saturday) she seems to be recovering well. She gets rattlesnake antivenom every August and perhaps that is a factor. Much more swelling this time than last so the vet gave her one round of antivenom and more benadryl, plus lots of antibiotics.

Somehow, she's never been skunked or slapped by a porky. She does truly hate coyotes and attacks every one she sees. I saw her roll one a year or so ago, and it then took off even faster. She's got 10 ounds on them so one-on-one they don't stick around.

I've never seen a snake out so early in the year here around San Diego. We've had several weeks of cool weather, but recently it has warmed into the 70's and that apparently brought them out.

Early season set-backs

I recently returned from Northeast Oregon. Returned from my hunt early - not something I would usually do.


I ran out of dog. My old dog Jesse is a little long in the tooth and I left him home to keep my wife company. Tommy is in South Carolina in training. So I took Ted and Cody, the six month old puppy. Long story short, we hunted opening weekend but by Monday Ted's foot began to swell and looked really nasty.


To the vet in Enterprise, Oregon (Jereld E. Rice, DVM). Neither of us could find a wound, but it looked a lot like a grass awn in a middle toe. Ted was fevered and the foot was red and swollen to almost twice normal size. The vet prescribed Cephalexin and Rimidyl and said it would probably take 10 days or so to heal, but to come back if I saw changes. 


Two days later I let Ted out of his crate to pee, and he decided to go hunting. After Pete and I spent a couple hours looking for him, he showed up at the truck looking contrite, and without his bandage on his foot (I had found most of the bandage downhill and about a mile away earlier in the search). I cleaned his foot and flushed with saline solution and while doing so noticed an entry wound. Back to the vet, where he did some deep cleaning and removed parts of a cheat grass awn. "Give him 10 days", said the vet. 


So I hunted with Pete behind his setters, Silk and Rosie and focused on running Cody every day and had a good time watching him learn about chukars and Huns. This was really the bright point of the trip. 


But after suffering some back pain in the mornings, shooting poorly when I had opportunities and falling while fishing the Wenaha and ruining my digital camera, I felt I was snake bit and decided to head home to regroup and plan for hunting later in the fall when Ted's foot heals up. 


I did enjoy Pete's company, we had some great campfires and ate and drank well. But even I know when to quit.

Flying your bird-dog

This might have been a very different post if the outcome had been any different, but I am happy to report that Mr. Enthusiasm has arrived safely home.

After spending a month out in the White Mountains of Arizonatraining with Bill Gibbons this summer, I decided to leave my younger dog out there for another six weeks so he could keep getting regular, honest birdwork. I had originally driven out there with my two dogs -- but was now faced with an obvious dilemma.

I should point out that we invested in a Deer Creek Uplanderdogbox roughly three years ago when we became a two-dog household and it was pretty obvious we were going to be driving a lot with our two dogs. Even leaving aside how (literally) cool these insulated boxes can be, or how convenient the top storage compartment is, this was one of our best investments because of the extra protection these boxes offer our dogs while driving. Mercifully, I don't have any horror stories to tell about close calls -- but I have peace of mind knowing that my dogs can't be catapulted around should an accident befall us.

At first, because Jozsi was flying out of Phoenix, I thought I'd have to go out there and drive him back because the temperature at the airport would be too high in mid-September. I then discovered that this was largely urban myth and that individual airlines maintain their own guidelines for when and where they will fly dogs. Then, at this point in my research, of course, there were the seven puppies who died on an American Airlines flight in early August from Tulsa to Chicago. Another friend then mentioned that there was an airline that only flew dogs and cats -- Pet Airways, surprisingly enough -- and in the main cabin, to boot.

The deal with Pet Airways is that they are, I believe, a single plane operation and essentially fly out of nine regional airports across the country, all close to major metropolitan areas. So, for example, they do fly in and out of 'Phoenix' and 'New York' - but these are actually Falcon Field in Mesa and Republic Airport in Farmingdale. They essentially fly eastbound on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and westbound on Thursdays and Fridays, normally with a stop-over in Omaha. It all looks pretty slick.

They are a single-plane operation, however, with limited space and are pretty adamant about folks making reservations for the correct size crate. One thing to keep in mind before flying your bird-dog is that the USDA regulates travel crate sizes, not the individual airlines. As theirregulations state: "Primary enclosures used to transport dogs and cats must be large enough to ensure that each animal contained in the primary enclosure has enough space to turn about normally while stand, to stand and sit erect, and to lie in a natural position." (Regulation 3.14.e.1) Call me inhumane, but part of the point of a dog-box is that your dogs can't move around entirely freely (so that in the event of an accident, they don't become a projectile). In any case, keep in mind that the crate you have at home is probably smaller than the one you'll be expected to fly your dog in.

What this means with regard to Pet Airways is that, interestingly enough, in the time between when I first started researching flying Jozsi with them and now, they have changed their website reservation process so that owners can no longer choose which size carrier their dog will fly in, but have to input their dog's height (when standing erect) and weight. I presume that their policy of no refunds is still in effect if you reserve a smaller crate size than necessary to save money and there are no larger crate spaces available on your dog's flight. And there are, of course, a limited number of larger-sized crates on each plane so if you decide to go this route and have an average-sized pointing dog, book well in advance.

I did also call Continental Airlines to inquire about their PetSafe flight program and was immediately impressed by the agent who picked up my call. If she even used a computer to tell me how I could fly my dog on a direct flight from Phoenix to the East Coast, I would be genuinely surprised. It took less than two minutes for her to tell me the Phoenix SkyHarbor flight limitations (e.g. before September 15th, they won't fly a dog later than 8:00am, period), flight numbers, flight times, and cost. When I did call again, the representative who made the reservation was equally thorough and well informed. And frankly, by contrast, the representative at PetAirways sounded both a little vague and a little smug. If there had been space on a PetAirways flight that worked for us, would I have still flown my dog on Continental? That's a tough call, but I have to say that I felt a little played -- as if not flying your dog in the main cabin was somehow not doing the best for my dog.

Nevertheless, the spectre of those seven puppies nagged at me. Honestly. But this was my thought process. Since mid-2005, commercial airlines have been required by the US Department of Transportation to track killed, lost, or injured pets on its flights. As this blogarticle about that tragic American Airlines flight points out, the US Department of Transportation has records of only 122 pet deaths in five years. Again, I appreciate that if one of these 122 dogs were one of mine, I might be writing a different story. But statistically speaking, unlike those 7 very young dogs in Chicago, the chances of anything disastrous happening to my super-fit, crate-acclimatized three-year-old were slim. And I imagine that those odds are also significantly slimmer than putting my dog in a crate in a rental car and driving on the nation's highways for four days straight. I can't find any statistics for how many dogs are killed in automotive accidents, but I strongly suspect that it's more than 122 in five years.

So, I booked with Continental through their PetSafe program -- and I have to say I wasn't merely satisified but also impressed. When I made the reservation with Continental, the service rep gave me precise directions to both the drop-off and pick-up sites, complete with actual direct numbers. We joked about that fact that the drop-off in Phoenix sounds completely dodgy -- in a trailer on top of a parking garage (but as it turns out is a fully air-conditioned, dedicated pet reception where they keep all the pets till the last minute before boarding). But his directions were completely accurate despite the labyrinthine nature of Newark airport (which is still nothing compared to either of the major New York airports) and the staff clearly on the ball. While I waited for Jozsi to show up, it was clear that they were giving several dogs waiting to depart their last minute trip to the bathroom.

I can't say that I am now rushing to fly my dogs everywhere, but I think it's important to keep in mind that the media doesn't report stories like 'Healthy male vizsla arrives safely at Newark Airport!', that fear-mongers literally profit from tragedies like that in Chicago, and that there are alternatives to driving your dogs everywhere, alternatives that might actually be safer.

Summer and heat - again

Dogs – especially sporting dogs - are particularly susceptible to heat stroke. This is a primary danger to our bird dogs. Your dog is far more likely to suffer heatstroke than snakebite, coyote attack, or any other medical problem in the field. It happens rapidly and is often fatal. Because dogs have limited ability to control body temperature (mainly respiration), these mechanisms can fail to control temperatures, and the stage is set for heat stroke. 

Once a dog's body temperature passes above about 105⁰F, changes begin to occur that make it difficult to regain normal temperatures. Oxygen demand increases beyond what can be supplied. As temperature elevates past 108⁰F , cellular damage starts to occur in the kidneys, liver, blood, gastrointestinal tract, heart and brain – how much damage depends on the temperature and duration. Even dogs that do not die immediately may (or will) experience continued problems and die several days later. I know people who have lost dogs they thought would survive, and it is a heartbreaker.

Aggravating factors

Obviously, heat, but it does not have to be extremely hot. Exertion, humidity, lack of hydration, use of some drugs (like antihistamines), and lack of air circulation (as in a closed vehicle or crate) are all associated with canine heat stroke.

Extreme activity will drive body temperatures up very quickly. After high activity, return the dog to an air conditioned space, or wet your dog down stake him out in an area that is shaded and breezy to allow evaporation to further cool the dog. Do not return a wet dog to an enclosed crate – evaporative cooling requires air circulation. Provide plenty of cool fresh water both before and after activity. When hunting and trialing, I find that a dog is usually very receptive to a drink once he has run for 5 or 10 minutes. This is an opportunity to get extra fluids into the dog before he actually needs it. Keep the dogs weight down, provide exercise regularly, and be careful with older dogs.


Evaporative cooling becomes less efficient as the relative humidity rises, so humidity is an important factor as well. Jim Michaletz, a Missouri field trailer, has suggested that combining the air temperature (⁰F) and relative humidity figure is a good index. If, for instance, it is 70⁰F with a relative humidity of 70% to total number would be 140. It could be 85⁰F with a relative humidity of 40% and the total is 125 -- effectively lower.  Jim says that he stops running dogs when the combined number gets above 140.

Signs of heat stroke

Dogs suffering heat stroke will exhibit disorientation, staggering or stumbling, excessive and uncontrolled panting and accelerated heart rate. The gums may appear grayish-pink. They often do not want water or food. When in doubt, assume that the dog has heat stroke and take immediate steps to cool the pup down.

First aid and follow-up

In my opinion, it is far better to over-react than to simply wait and see. Get the dog cool as soon as humanly possible – immersion in cool water will rapidly lower body temperature. Get the dog to a vet immediately for blood tests and IV hydration. If there has been damage the blood test will indicate and additional therapy may be required.

Remember, it's a lot hotter at ground level that on the back of a horse, on an ATV, or even walking. Be careful out there. Better, I think, to err on the side of caution and pick that pup up before he tires and overheats.


EDIT -- I see that there is another useful piece on canine heat stroke on Strideaway by Shawn Wayment, DVM. I highly recommend it! - MS

Hunting Dog Hypoglycemia

Dr. Charlie Hjerpe with 2X CH Sand Creek Bud 

It has been my privilege, through field trialing, to come to know Dr. Charles A. Hjerpe, DVM. If it has been done with bird dogs, Charlie has probably done it during his long lifetime. Charlie is a little modest in his introduction - he is Professor Emeritus of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California School of Veterinary Medicine at Davis.

A couple of months ago, Charlie sent me a copy of a longer article that he had written about Hunting Dog Hypoglycemia. Great information, including some little known information about nutrition and fitness, but a little too long for a blog post. At my request, Charlie boiled it down to the following article. A big thank you to Charlie for this very valuable contribution...

Some Personal Observations, Opinions, Hypotheses, and a Little Science Concerning Hunting Dog Hypoglycemia (HDH)

by Dr. C.A. Hjerpe, DVM - Davis, California

A. INTRODUCTION:

Before discussing my personal observations of and opinions concerning hypoglycemia in hunting dogs, I will first offer some disclaimers, present my credentials and provide some definitions. First, I wish to emphasize that I am not and have never been a small animal specialist, and my personal observations and opinions are based on recollections that are not backed up with detailed, written records, and should not be regarded as “research”.

I graduated from Cornell University’s New York State College of Veterinary Medicine in 1958, worked in private, mixed species veterinary practices for 5 years, and was a professor of large animal medicine at the School of Veterinary Medicine, University of California, Davis, for 31 years, until retiring in 1994. During the last 14 years of my academic career, I also served as Director of the UCD Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital. During the past 48 years, I have owned one Weimaraner, 2 English setters and more English pointers than I would be able to recall and enumerate (probably more than 100). I have field trialed with most of these pointers, and have always hunted with my field trial dogs.

B. DEFINITIONS:

I think it appropriate to begin this presentation with a short discussion of hypoglycemia. When veterinarians or physicians say that a dog (or cow or person) is hypoglycemic, we are saying that the concentration of glucose (a specific type of sugar compound) in the blood of that individual is below the normal range for blood glucose values in that species. For a dog, it means that the patient’s blood glucose concentration is less than 59.4 milligrams per deciliter (mg/dl).

Summer and heat

"Alder Brook" by Chet Reneson

I am always at a loss to determine when Summer officially begins. I went to Wikipedia, and remained unenlightened....

"In some Western countries, especially the USA, (summer is) believed to start at the equinoxes and solstices, based on a misunderstanding of astronomical reckoning. Thus, in the Southern Hemisphere, based on this premise summer begins on the day of the December solstice and ends on the March equinox. When it is summer in the southern hemisphere it is winter in the northern hemisphere, and vice versa. From a purely astronomical viewpoint, the equinoxes and solstices would be the middle of the respective seasons, but a variable seasonal lag means that the meteorological start of the season, which is based on average temperature patterns, occurs several weeks later than the start of the astronomical season. According to meteorologists, summer extends for the whole months of December, January and February in the southern hemisphere, and the whole months of June, July and August in the northern hemisphere..."

My take away on this is that summer begins when it starts to get hotter and is over when it starts to get cooler. So, in spite of cool weather here and in many parts of the West, it is now summer. OK?

In most states training on wild birds may not begin until July 1, in consideration of the Spring nesting period. A good thing, I think. But we can make sure that our dogs get exercise to keep them trim. Since I have setters, I am contemplating a buzz job to keep them cooler as the weather warms up. My wife hates it, but I suspect that it is a help to the dogs, especially when they are running. I am shopping for a quality clipper with the horsepower to make quick work of the coats of four setters. I have used horse clippers in the past, and they worked well. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Summer means thinking about warm weather hazards to the dogs when out in the field -- heat is a killer, and there are rattlesnakes, foxtails, speargrass and other concerns in many areas. I like to exercise the dogs in the morning before it gets too hot. I have also found fewer rattlesnakes in the morning, compared to the number that seem to become active in the evening, after a hot day.

I always cut back on the amount of food I give the dogs during summer - usually by about 1/3, and I only feed once daily. Some people change the feed to a lower protein/fat food, but I continue with what has proven to work for me - Purina Pro Plan Performance. I just feed less.

Summer means trout fishing and preparing for the fall hunting season. I have been doing much of the later and none of the former. Right now I am getting the bits together to build a dog topper for the truck - I'll post some on this as I make progress. Also beginning to get my Airstream out of mothballs, and do needed work on it. I need to get out and do some fishing before it is too hot. 

The painting above is by Chet Reneson. Chet is a very fine watercolorist, a gentleman, and dedicated outdoorsman. I have a number of paintings and prints by Chet, including a  Bahamian street scene that I gave to to my wife on a recent anniversary. Chet's wife Penny sent us a sheaf of originals to choose from. We picked out one we liked, and sent the rest back. Remarkable in this day and age, I think.

New blog on bird dog conditioning, medical issues

Blogger Shawn Wayment, DVM has started a new blog - Tattered Collars and Covey Dogs -  dealing with conditioning, nutrition and veterinary issues especially for bird dogs. Shawn also frequents this blog. His insights are well worth following, so bookmark his site. It's also in the LWBD blog roll. 

Thanks, Shawn!

Traveling with bird dogs

Many hunters and trialers drive thousands of miles a year with their dogs. I am no exception. Some of you might find something in my experiences that you can put to good use. Some of you may have different ideas and practices – if so, please share them.

I travel in either my Ford Expedition or my Toyota Landcruiser. I sold my last pick-up truck some years ago. Traveling with dogs in an SUV has some good and bad points. Good points are that I can keep my dogs warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather. I can keep a close eye on them in the event of a problem. Bad points – dog farts, and space constraints. One requires power windows, the other careful organization.

Pete Houser built a drawer system for me to hold guns and small gear (thank you, Pete!) in the rear portion of the SUV. Guns, ammunition, stake outs, dog gear and tools are handy from the tailgate without digging through gear or moving anything.

Every dog deserves a place of his own where he is protected during emergency maneuvers and feels comfortable. Dogs should be crate broke when they are puppies and will learn to love riding in their crates. The crates go on the top of the gun box. This puts dog crates up high enough that they limit the rear view significantly. My answer is to employ wire crates that allow me to see through to the rear window. They also allow the dogs to see out and they fold up for easy storage when not in use. While traveling (and for most of the season) the crates are secured to the gun box by a pair of ratchet straps so they will not shift or tip over.

For water, I carry a 20 litre water jug made of heavy plastic – a bomb proof product from Scepter of Canada. It is similar in design to a fuel jerry can, but made of plastic rated for potable water – no weird chemicals in the water. The can sits neatly on the floor at the rear between the gun box and the side of the truck. After trying many different designs and mopping up leaking water from lesser products, I have settled on this can as the best. I also carry a stainless water dish for each dog. Offer your dogs water at each rest stop.

I have seen a number of watering systems made of PVC pipe. There are possible risks using this material... PVC should be used for cold water only, or venting. CPVC can be used for hot and cold potable water supply. Connections should be made with primers and solvent cements as required by the plumbing code. No sense in putting harmful chemicals into your dogs.

Dogs need regular breaks to stretch and do their business. I stop about every three to four hours. The interval should be regular so that the dogs can anticipate when a stop will occur. When traveling, I recommend that you avoid highway rest stops with 'doggie areas'. These spots are used by many travelers and are a vector for disease pathogens. A lonely stretch of highway with a wide spot to park is a better bet.

A check cord is essential when you stop for a travel break. A 15' or 20' check cord with a quality brass swivel snap should be handy whenever you open the tailgate. I never let a dog out of his crate without a check cord, leash or other restraint. They know this and are trained not to step out of the crate unless they have the check cord secured to their collar. There are too many things that tempt a dog that has been confined for several hours. Hazards include traffic, barbed wire fences, road killed wildlife, and rubbish (you name it... from broken bottles to used disposable diapers!) along the road side. Maintain positive control of your dog during travel stops.

Rattlesnakes - three things that you can do...

I copped this photo from a posting on the Net - it typifies the threat that rattlesnakes pose, especially to bird dogs.

I am knocking on wood as I write this because I have never had a dog bitten by a rattlesnake. But all of us who hunt in the West - and many other areas of the country - are exposed to rattlesnakes. While I do not worry much about the threat to me, I am concerned about the menace they pose to my bird dogs when hunting and even when trialing. Thousands of dogs are bitten every year and I have had a few close calls.

Rattlesnakes carry a hemotoxic venom that attacks the blood and causes swelling, intense pain, and tissue damage. They can kill a dog in some cases. Other rattlers may also carry a neurotoxin in their venom that attacks the nervous system, which is very dangerous and can cause death by respiratory failure. The Mojave green rattlesnake and the banded rock rattler are two neurotoxic species that are native to the Southwest.

Here are three things that I have done to reduce the threat snakes pose to my dogs...

1. Snake avoidance training - done with a live rattler by someone who has experience, avoidance training will definitely help reduce direct confrontations between bird dog and rattler. But this alone does not snake proof a dog because a dog can still be struck by a snake, there is always the potential for a 'drive-by' snake bite. 

2. Antihistamines can reduce the reaction to a bite. I carry preloaded syringes of Benedryl (premeasured for each dog) in aluminum cigar tubes in my hunting vest. If a dog is struck, I can immediately start a remedial response to help reduce reaction and buy some time for the dog. Most vets will provide these if you explain your need.

3. The last defense is somewhat controversial. I have used the rattlesnake vaccine by Red Rock Biologics on 4 of my dogs. I have heard objections from vets (including my own) who question the safety and efficacy of this vaccine. With the exception of Jesse, none of these dogs has had the slightest negative reaction to the vaccine. Jesse's muzzle began to swell rapidly within an hour of receiving the vaccine, and I gave him a shot of Benedryl. Within about 2 hours the swelling was nearly gone, and he recovered fully within 24 hours. He has not received any additional vaccine.

According to Red Rock Biologics, "This vaccine works extremely well at getting dogs to generate protective antibody against rattlesnake venom. These protective antibodies start neutralizing venom immediately. This means that vaccinated dogs experience less pain and have a reduced risk of permanent injury from rattlesnake bite. Veterinarians typically report that such dogs experience less swelling, less tissue damage and a faster recovery from snakebite than unvaccinated dogs.

Factors which may influence antibody effectiveness against venomous snakebite include: the type of snake, location of bite and amount of venom injected; how well the dog has responded to the vaccine and the length of time since the last dose of vaccine was given to the dog.

This rattlesnake vaccine was developed to protect against Western Diamondback Rattlesnake venom. It is most effective against this snake's venom. Venom from many other snakes found throughout the United States is similar to the venom of the Western Diamondback Rattlesnake. Because of these similarities, this vaccine also provides protection against the venoms of the Western Rattlesnake (including the Prairie, Great Basin, Northern and Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes), Sidewinder, Timber Rattlesnake, Massasauga and the Copperhead. This vaccine provides partial protection against the Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake. This vaccine does not provide protection against the Water Moccasin (Cottonmouth), Mojave Rattlesnake or Coral Snakes. Red Rock Biologics is developing a variety of vaccines to provide the best protection against poisonous snakes for dogs in each part of the country."

While some do question its effectiveness, there is much anecdotal evidence that it substantially reduces reaction to a rattlesnake bite. My feeling is this; if it buys me time to get my dog to a vet for treatment, I will use it. If your vet does not have the vaccine, it is available in trays of a dozen (I think) doses from distributors, and single doses may the ordered by your vet directly from Red Rock Biologics. Cost is about $30 to $50 per dose at your vet.

Rattlesnake strikes are always an emergency, and the dog should taken to a vet immediately. But we are often many long miles from a vet, and additional time bought by the use of antihistamines and vaccine increases the likelyhood of survival without crippling after effects.

Cactus and repairs in the field

Mark Copeland removes cactus thorns from his GSP, Princess

Although I have a pair of Lewis dog boots in my kit somewhere, I cannot recall ever using them. My dogs have developed pretty tough feet, and learned to avid the worst of the cactus and thorns. But they are not bullet proof. Whether you boot or not, your dog will end up with cactus punctures if you run in the Southwest.

The most common thorns they encounter where I hunt are hawthorn, mesquite, cholla cactus  (at the rear of my friend Mark) and prickly pear cactus (foreground of photo). The cholla - they are found across the Southwest, and there are perhaps 20 different types - are nasty because they are clumpy with many fine thorns. They hit the dog, stick to the fur, and break off in clumps. They are often lodged tight to the dog's coat on the belly or under a leg. The dog who runs into a cholla may stop altogether and await your help. I carry a Leatherman tool on my belt to pull cholla balls off them and to remove the worst of the thorns. 

This past season in West Texas, the rains had created a luxuriant growth of grass, with many prickly pear cactus hidden below. The dogs had a tough time getting through the grass in places, and the prickly pear cactus offered a nasty surprise with inch long  thorns waiting for a misstep. 

Maintenance means checking the dogs every 30  to 60 minutes when watering, whenever they stop or limp, and certainly when you arrive back at the vehicle before they go into their crate. Remove all possible thorns. Between the toes is a vulnerable area, and sensitive. If your dog is snappy, put a jacket over his head and tie the sleeves under his chin. A pair of hemostats in your kit will help to get the fine, hair-like barbs that always seem to end up in the front of the chest and legs. Also check the tongue and muzzle area. I think little antiseptic is a good idea before you put your dog up. If his feet are really tender, keep looking for the cause, and give the little warrior a day off.

After the trip I check each dog closely for tiny red bumps in the skin - each of them will have a tiny barb that can be removed with a tweezers, and I apply antiseptic to these after pulling the thorns. It may take several sessions over a couple days to get them all out. 

The Spay or Neuter decision

There has been much disinformation spread by proponents of spay and neuter as a method of population control, with claimed health benefits. Many vets also recommend the procedure, claiming health benefits without explaining (or necessarily understanding) the negative risk factors. Many adoption agreements require that a pup be altered by the age of six months.

This is a decision that should be left to the owner, and a good vet will understand and explain both the positive and negative aspects of spaying or neutering your dog, rather than proactively recommending it as standard procedure.

The following was forwarded to me by Dr. Charles Hjerpe DVM, Emeritus Professor of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine. It does not address the demonstrated behavioral issues that have been seen in neutered or spayed dogs, which should also be considered.

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At some point, most of us with an interest in dogs will have to consider whether or not to spay/neuter our pet. Tradition holds that the benefits of doing so at an early age outweigh the risks. Often, tradition holds sway in the decision-making process even after countervailing evidence has accumulated.

Ms. Sanborn has reviewed the veterinary medical literature in an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, attempting to unravel the complexities of the subject. More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

No sweeping generalizations are implied in this review. Rather, the author asks us to consider all the health and disease information available as individual animals are evaluated. Then, the best decisions should be made accounting for gender, age, breed, and even the specific conditions under which the long-term care, housing and training of the animal will occur.

This important review will help veterinary medical care providers as well as pet owners make informed decisions. Who could ask for more?

Larry S. Katz, PhD
Associate Professor and Chair
Animal Sciences
Rutgers University
New Brunswick, NJ 08901

INTRODUCTION

Dog owners in America are frequently advised to spay/neuter their dogs for health reasons. A number of health benefits are cited, yet evidence is usually not cited to support the alleged health benefits.

When discussing the health impacts of spay/neuter, health risks are often not mentioned. At times, some risks are mentioned, but the most severe risks usually are not.

This article is an attempt to summarize the long-term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs that can be found in the veterinary medical literature. This article will not discuss the impact of spay/neuter on population control, or the impact of spay/neuter on behavior.

Nearly all of the health risks and benefits summarized in this article are findings from retrospective epidemiological research studies of dogs, which examine potential associations by looking backwards in time. A few are from prospective research studies, which examine potential associations by looking forward in time.

SUMMARY

An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the long- term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs, especially immature male dogs, in order to prevent future health problems. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

On the positive side, neutering male dogs

• Eliminates the small risk (probably <1%)

• Reduces the risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders 

• Reduces the risk of perianal fistulas 

• May possibly reduce the risk of diabetes (data inconclusive) 

On the negative side, neutering male dogs 

• If done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in medium/large and larger breeds with a poor prognosis. 

• Increases the risk of cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 1.6 

• Triples the risk of hypothyroidism 

• Increases the risk of progressive geriatric cognitive impairment 

• Triples the risk of obesity, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems 

• Quadruples the small risk (<0.6%)

• Doubles the small risk (<1%)

• Increases the risk of orthopedic disorders 

• Increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations 

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in some (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the female dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds. 

On the positive side, spaying female dogs

 

• If done before 2.5 years of age, greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors, the most common malignant tumors in female dogs 

• Nearly eliminates the risk of pyometra, which otherwise would affect about 23% of intact female dogs; pyometra kills about 1% of intact female dogs 

• Reduces the risk of perianal fistulas 

• Removes the very small risk (≤0.5%) from uterine, cervical, and ovarian tumors 

On the negative side, spaying female dogs 

• If done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in larger breeds with a poor prognosis 

• Increases the risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 2.2 and cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of>5; this is a common cancer and major cause of death in some breeds
• Triples the risk of hypothyroidism
• Increases the risk of obesity by a factor of 1.6-2, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
• Causes urinary “spay incontinence” in 4-20% of female dogs
• Increases the risk of persistent or recurring urinary tract infections by a factor of 3-4
• Increases the risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, and vaginitis, especially for female dogs spayed before puberty
• Doubles the small risk (<1%)>

• Increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations 

One thing is clear – much of the spay/neuter information that is available to the public is unbalanced and contains claims that are exaggerated or unsupported by evidence. Rather than helping to educate pet owners, much of it has contributed to common misunderstandings about the health risks and benefits associated of spay/neuter in dogs.

The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all pet dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.