Goodbye Toby, and thank you

Mike's October Toby - Febuary 17, 1994 - August 11, 2008

It is always difficult to say goodbye to an old friend. 

I remember Toby as he was in his prime, when he roaded a covey of chukars over a quarter mile along the steep breaks of the Grande Ronde River, pinning them in a depression and allowing me the rare opportunity for a triple on a covey rise. He was descended from dogs like Michigan Mac, CH Amos Mosley, Sam L's Skyhigh, CH Mail Order Bride, and was sired by 14X Ch Millpond Tom. He was a much better bird dog than I had a right to expect, and I am very grateful for that. Toby taught me a great deal about bird dogs and bird hunting - and about trust.

In recent years Toby developed arthritis in his hips, eventually losing much motor function and finally, the ability to walk more than a step or two. I made the decision to send him along and so yesterday he had a peaceful death while I held him to me. 

It is always difficult to say goodbye to an old friend.

Fishing in Baja California

Every July I think of Baja. I have made occasional trips there, to Loreto and LaPaz to fish at Punta Arenas de la Ventanas. We have had some rare times there and caught dorado, sailfish, roosterfish, striped marlin, skipjack, bonita, cabrita, and many other species. My friend Bill Cleveland hooked a whale (a humpback, if I remember correctly) while wrestling a tuna to the boat, and the whale stripped  line until 'Pop!' and he was gone, along with the tuna. 

The yellowfin tuna in the picture above was caught using conventional 30 lb. tackle trolling a live bonito, which was caught earlier on fly tackle. This is a lot like being hooked to a horse... straight out and down, then an hour or so of getting the fish in while it does pretty much what it wants. I gave this fish to my pangero, Beto, who reported the next day that it weighed 56 kilos after being bled and gutted. This is not the biggest tuna in the gulf, but I don't really want to catch any that are bigger. 

We actually release most of the fish we catch, but usually give one to the pangero 'Para su comida'. The pangero can sell a fish like this one for much more than he makes taking us fishing. We usually fish from 6 AM 'til 1 PM or so, as it is very hot in July. On the ride back to LaPaz it is good to stop at a cantina in Juan des Planes and have a couple of achingly cold Modelo Especials right from the cooler. I love Mexico.      Photo by Clair Kofoed

Rattlesnakes - three things that you can do...

I copped this photo from a posting on the Net - it typifies the threat that rattlesnakes pose, especially to bird dogs.

I am knocking on wood as I write this because I have never had a dog bitten by a rattlesnake. But all of us who hunt in the West - and many other areas of the country - are exposed to rattlesnakes. While I do not worry much about the threat to me, I am concerned about the menace they pose to my bird dogs when hunting and even when trialing. Thousands of dogs are bitten every year and I have had a few close calls.

Rattlesnakes carry a hemotoxic venom that attacks the blood and causes swelling, intense pain, and tissue damage. They can kill a dog in some cases. Other rattlers may also carry a neurotoxin in their venom that attacks the nervous system, which is very dangerous and can cause death by respiratory failure. The Mojave green rattlesnake and the banded rock rattler are two neurotoxic species that are native to the Southwest.

Here are three things that I have done to reduce the threat snakes pose to my dogs...

1. Snake avoidance training - done with a live rattler by someone who has experience, avoidance training will definitely help reduce direct confrontations between bird dog and rattler. But this alone does not snake proof a dog because a dog can still be struck by a snake, there is always the potential for a 'drive-by' snake bite. 

2. Antihistamines can reduce the reaction to a bite. I carry preloaded syringes of Benedryl (premeasured for each dog) in aluminum cigar tubes in my hunting vest. If a dog is struck, I can immediately start a remedial response to help reduce reaction and buy some time for the dog. Most vets will provide these if you explain your need.

3. The last defense is somewhat controversial. I have used the rattlesnake vaccine by Red Rock Biologics on 4 of my dogs. I have heard objections from vets (including my own) who question the safety and efficacy of this vaccine. With the exception of Jesse, none of these dogs has had the slightest negative reaction to the vaccine. Jesse's muzzle began to swell rapidly within an hour of receiving the vaccine, and I gave him a shot of Benedryl. Within about 2 hours the swelling was nearly gone, and he recovered fully within 24 hours. He has not received any additional vaccine.

According to Red Rock Biologics, "This vaccine works extremely well at getting dogs to generate protective antibody against rattlesnake venom. These protective antibodies start neutralizing venom immediately. This means that vaccinated dogs experience less pain and have a reduced risk of permanent injury from rattlesnake bite. Veterinarians typically report that such dogs experience less swelling, less tissue damage and a faster recovery from snakebite than unvaccinated dogs.

Factors which may influence antibody effectiveness against venomous snakebite include: the type of snake, location of bite and amount of venom injected; how well the dog has responded to the vaccine and the length of time since the last dose of vaccine was given to the dog.

This rattlesnake vaccine was developed to protect against Western Diamondback Rattlesnake venom. It is most effective against this snake's venom. Venom from many other snakes found throughout the United States is similar to the venom of the Western Diamondback Rattlesnake. Because of these similarities, this vaccine also provides protection against the venoms of the Western Rattlesnake (including the Prairie, Great Basin, Northern and Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes), Sidewinder, Timber Rattlesnake, Massasauga and the Copperhead. This vaccine provides partial protection against the Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake. This vaccine does not provide protection against the Water Moccasin (Cottonmouth), Mojave Rattlesnake or Coral Snakes. Red Rock Biologics is developing a variety of vaccines to provide the best protection against poisonous snakes for dogs in each part of the country."

While some do question its effectiveness, there is much anecdotal evidence that it substantially reduces reaction to a rattlesnake bite. My feeling is this; if it buys me time to get my dog to a vet for treatment, I will use it. If your vet does not have the vaccine, it is available in trays of a dozen (I think) doses from distributors, and single doses may the ordered by your vet directly from Red Rock Biologics. Cost is about $30 to $50 per dose at your vet.

Rattlesnake strikes are always an emergency, and the dog should taken to a vet immediately. But we are often many long miles from a vet, and additional time bought by the use of antihistamines and vaccine increases the likelyhood of survival without crippling after effects.

Cactus and repairs in the field

Mark Copeland removes cactus thorns from his GSP, Princess

Although I have a pair of Lewis dog boots in my kit somewhere, I cannot recall ever using them. My dogs have developed pretty tough feet, and learned to avid the worst of the cactus and thorns. But they are not bullet proof. Whether you boot or not, your dog will end up with cactus punctures if you run in the Southwest.

The most common thorns they encounter where I hunt are hawthorn, mesquite, cholla cactus  (at the rear of my friend Mark) and prickly pear cactus (foreground of photo). The cholla - they are found across the Southwest, and there are perhaps 20 different types - are nasty because they are clumpy with many fine thorns. They hit the dog, stick to the fur, and break off in clumps. They are often lodged tight to the dog's coat on the belly or under a leg. The dog who runs into a cholla may stop altogether and await your help. I carry a Leatherman tool on my belt to pull cholla balls off them and to remove the worst of the thorns. 

This past season in West Texas, the rains had created a luxuriant growth of grass, with many prickly pear cactus hidden below. The dogs had a tough time getting through the grass in places, and the prickly pear cactus offered a nasty surprise with inch long  thorns waiting for a misstep. 

Maintenance means checking the dogs every 30  to 60 minutes when watering, whenever they stop or limp, and certainly when you arrive back at the vehicle before they go into their crate. Remove all possible thorns. Between the toes is a vulnerable area, and sensitive. If your dog is snappy, put a jacket over his head and tie the sleeves under his chin. A pair of hemostats in your kit will help to get the fine, hair-like barbs that always seem to end up in the front of the chest and legs. Also check the tongue and muzzle area. I think little antiseptic is a good idea before you put your dog up. If his feet are really tender, keep looking for the cause, and give the little warrior a day off.

After the trip I check each dog closely for tiny red bumps in the skin - each of them will have a tiny barb that can be removed with a tweezers, and I apply antiseptic to these after pulling the thorns. It may take several sessions over a couple days to get them all out. 

Pointing Dogs - Their Training and Handling

Earl Crangle could be described as a second generation old time pointing dog pro. In the 1960's he began to record his thoughts and experiences in training and handling dogs for many years, beginning as a boy working with his father, Hall of Famer George M. Crangle. 

I have a copy of Earl's book, Pointing Dogs - Their Training and Handling  - and have read and re-read the book over the past several years. There is no hollow advice, no tricks, no bullshit. Just solid advice for the bird dog enthusiast. 

One of the intriguing topics is his "Mexico Method" of training bird dogs. Earl lived and trained in Mexico for a number of years, and is partly responsible for the popularity of field trials in Mexico. Here's how he describes the Mexico Method...

"The quail season in Mexico opens November 1 and closes April 1. Thus, there are five months of open, legal shooting per year. I hunted in the states of Morelos, Veracruz,  Chiapas, Tamaulipas, and Yucatan and had the use of thousands and thousands of acres of beautiful quail hunting areas that today still hold an abundance of birds. When the season opened,. I usually hunted two hours in the early morning and the last two hours before dark, sometimes accompanied by friends. Many days I found twenty bevies in the morning and an equal number in the afternoon...

(Snip)

If I have young dogs, from 10 to 18 months of age, I take them along on my hunting trips and brace them with an experienced, fully broke shooting dog. I never run one for less than an hour; and if hunting conditions are good, I let them hunt for two hours. The young dog is allowed to do what he wishes on his birds. If he points, I will kill a bird and take him in to find it. If my experienced dog finds game, I walk up in shooting range in case the birds should flush, and then wait for my young dog to come in... I do not try to hold my young dogs steady to either wing and shot. If they bump a covey or a single bird, I say nothing and resume hunting. Within a week or ten days of this hunting under the gun, most of the youngsters will hold all the birds they point until I flush, breaking to wing and shot. Almost all will back the older dog immediately and remain backing until the birds are flushed.

Starting young dogs in this way has produced for me bird dogs as fine as I have probably seen...

In my opinion, this is required reading for a bird dog person, anywhere and with any breed.

Animal Rights - beyond propaganda to violence

Reading todays SF Chronicle, the front page carries a story of firebombings and harassment in Santa Cruz, CA. 

Santa Cruz - The devices used in two firebombings targeting UC Santa Cruz biologists are similar to some used in the past by animal rights activists, investigators said Sunday.

The bombs were so powerful they were like "Molotov cocktails on steroids," said Santa Cruz police Capt. Steve Clark.

One struck the home of assistant biology Professor David Fieldheim on Saturday morning, forcing him to flee with his family. The other exploded just a few minutes earlier outside the campus home of a second researcher.

(Snip)

Clark Said the bomb at Feildheim's house was similar to those used by animal rights extremists in the past, adding, "There are instructions on how to make it on their websites."

The article went on to report other AR violence, including assault, home invasion, and another recent firebombing in Southern California. 

These firebombers are terrorists willing to put the lives of other people in serious jeopardy - and their actions are considered by the FBI anti-terror task force to be 'terrorism and attempted murder'.  Apparently, they feel that their cause justifies any action, even actions that lead to loss of life or the serious destruction of property. 

Approaching a dog on point

Approaching a dog on point is a subject I do not see discussed much, but it has an impact on success in both hunting and field trialing.  

A couple of points... never run to a point. I see this every season... someone who thinks the birds will get away if he doesn't hurry, forgetting that he is carrying a loaded gun and putting pressure on the dog. It is best, I think, to take a few seconds to look over the situation and think about where the birds may be holding, the wind direction, and the likely direction of the flush. This will assist in planning the approach and flush. Then you can walk up to the point with a plan.

When possible I avoid approaching a pointing dog from the rear because it may put pressure on the dog to move, and he cannot see you approaching. Moving in ahead of the dog at an angle between 45% and 90% creates a pincer movement, blocking part of a possible escape route, usually allows the handler to see the dog, allows the dog to see the handler, and tells the dog to stay put while flushing. It also allows a safer shot after the flush. 

When chukar hunting dogs often point facing birds below - sometimes a steep slope. In these situations I try to move to the side about 10 yards, and move quietly downslope beyond the position of the dog by 20, 30 or more feet. Then I move towards the covey's likely holding area. When done right (which occasionally happens) the birds are trapped between me and the dog, and will flush overhead offering the best of all chukar shots. More likely, however, the birds will fly before being trapped, and offer the shooter the next best shot - a downhill crossing shot. In these situations approaching the flush from behind the dog will often result in a straightaway flight going out and down. The out and down shot is almost a snap shot as the birds go over the edge of the slope and disappear downhill. You will often end up taking a quick shot over the dog's head - tough on the dog's nerves at best, and dangerous at worst - and a poor shooting opportunity.

In field trials you should obviously avoid flushing the birds over your dog and creating a temptation he may not be able to resist.  With planted birds you also want to get the bird in the air quickly and avoid a prolonged flush and possible let down in the dog's intensity, and to avoid having birds running around on the ground where the dog can see them.